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Monkey Capital Hot Spring
Mr. Tamura, his mother and grandmother, three generations of onsen keepers sit around the kerosene stove in their bed and breakfast. 99.12.20/ Temperature: -5C/ Weather: Partly cloudy/ Wind Direction: SW
Current Location: Sarugakyo Hot Spring 36 44 07 N 138 53 27 E
Distance Traveled: 0 km (Rest day)As Japan is centered on several major volcanic faults, the country has made use of its very unique geographic features. It is difficult to pinpoint when man first made use of the wealth of hot springs throughout Japan, but it has been passed down through generations as a means to heal fatigued bodies as well as create strong bonds amongst communities. Today, I spent the day touring different onsen (hot springs) and questioning about the merits of Japan's rich hot spring resource.
It is amazing what an evening in a local restaurant can open the doors to. A gentleman I met last evening while having dinner suggested that I speak with a friend of his working in a local bed and breakfast about the history of Sarugakyo Hot Spring (Monkey Capital Hot Springs).
Seated around a kerosene stove Mr. Tamura and his 89 year old grandmother shared with me some of the history of Sarugakyo Hot Springs. "In the old days, people from this area primarily were farmers. In addition to farming rice and vegetables, many people kept silk worms to make silk thread." Hunched over on her stool, Mr. Tamura's grandmother said, "We were so busy with our farming work that we hardly had a chance to get into an onsen." "It has only been since the 1960's when the dam was built and the tunnel to Nigata (Mikuni Tunnel) completed that people have been able to make a living off of onsens."
It's hard to tell but I sit soothing in the hot spring at Mr. Tamura's onsen. He shared with me some of the healing aspects of onsens. "Since the 60's many people come to the springs for its healing effects. With a high concentration of Na+ and Ca2+ the springs are especially good for people with arteriosclerosis, cuts, burns, and chronic skin conditions. Hot springs in general are good for muscle soreness, back pains, stress, and mental refreshment. Most of our customers are elderly men and women who come and stay for close to a week to get the full effects of the onsen." Apparently most of the young tourists and skiers whom pass by tend to go to the larger resort-type onsens in the area.
Just when I thought my harvest of information had reached its peak, Mr. Tamura suggested that I visit Sarugakyo Hotel, one of the oldest onsens in Sarugakyo. My visit began with the telling of a folktale.
Hotel guests sat huddled around an open hearth. A pot hung over a small charcoal fire and Mrs. Mochitani sat upright in a kimono which dates back three generations. As she started her storytelling, the changing tones of her voice and the entertaining origins of how Sarugakyo Hot Springs gained its name slowly drew in customers.
From Mrs. Mochitani I learned more about the historical and social importance of onsens. "Our onsens is called 'Folktale Springs' because traditionally hot springs were places which community members gathered to rest, be social, and carry on the villages traditions. When men came down from the mountains or when women finished a hard day of making miso, they all gathered to relax in the onsen. It was there that folktale and the history of the village was passed on through generation. Just like today, people in the old days were hungry for information. Information in the old days was gossip about the village, what type of people had passed through the village, and old folktales. Since Sarugakyo was on the famous Mikuni Road all sorts of people passed through the area. When someone came to tell tales at the onsen people from all over the village came and gave full attention to the story tellers."
Mrs. Mochitani spoke of the importance of dialogue in the transmittance of information. "Unlike media today, in the old storytelling days storytellers would stop talking if listeners did not acknowledge with short phrases that they were listening. Since the onsens here served the purpose of creating dialogue and sharing history, we named our onsen 'Folktale Springs'."
When she suggested I test out the hot spring, I couldn't resist. Sitting in the hot mineral rich outdoor onsen I stared at the almost full moon. The calmness of the evening was soothing beyond belief. My body which has now traveled over 1400 kilometers was grateful. I too was grateful to have had stories of Sarugakyo passed on to me.
Greg
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